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Perast and the bay of Kotor

A STORY OF BEAUTY, CHURCHES AND CATS

The Bay of Kotor is an encyclopedia of the contradictions of post-Yugoslavia.

Glimpses of dazzling beauty, carcasses of the Yugoslav navy, ancient Habsburg forts, and wrecks of fishing boats. Venetian villages with unchanged grace but polluted and sometimes smelly waters. The charm and the white stones of Kotor dominated by the huge cruise ships that moor and throw up hasty and distracted excursionists.

Perast: churches and old Venetian lanes that descend rapidly from the mountainside to the edge of the sea. Fishermen’s houses, and restaurant terraces. You can sit on a bench by the roadside to drink a beer at twenty centimeters from the water. Those Yugoslav roads built right on the sea, without protections, have always fascinated and intrigued me. Does a 50 cm wave ever come here?

Few notice it because good rulers are elusive and do not impose their presence, but cats are in command at Perast. They are everywhere, pampered by the locals, refreshed, hosted on winter nights. They are the ones who allow access to an alley. They are the ones who, looking sideways, check that you leave a church without having touched anything and disdainfully accept some cuddles in exchange for the favor they do to you by eating the food you offer them.

After all, Perast is a village of churches and cats. The cats are the majority, but still, there are dozens of churches, large and small, restored and in ruins.

The feline kingdom also extends to the sea, up to the two islands a few hundred meters from the coast. Humans can only visit one, the other is kept reserved by the clergy.

Our Lady of the Rocks is a church with a sky blue dome that occupies half of an artificial island. Dalmatian white stone everywhere, a surprising view of the mouths, and too many tourists walking around in too narrow a space. Peace and mysticism seekers please go elsewhere. For example, to the St. George church, on the other island, that is unfortunately off-limits. For humans. Sovereigns don’t care about bans.

Kotor has little to envy to the charm of Zadar or Split except for its size and a certain air of decadence that arises from history, a relative lack of resources, and the absence of European contributions.

UNESCO protects but does not finance.

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Cream-colored alleys, steps, and secluded corners everywhere, a tree-lined square where cats reign (also here!). And they don’t do it with the haughty understatement of Perast. Here the felids reign clearly, take possession of the spaces, invade the benches, waiting for the tribute of food by the human bipeds.

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But why so many cats along these coasts? A theory told by the locals traces the presence of cats to the mercantile and maritime traditions of these places.

In past centuries, the calm waters of the bay, protected from any tide, were the perfect landing place for the merchant ships that shuttled between the Adriatic and the East. And on the ships there were cats, to hunt mice, they say here. And, a few of these cats remained on the ground after the departure of their vessel. This is the version of the locals, you’re free to believe it. Maybe you will find yourself mulling over it by facing the steep climb to the walls of the old city. Do not fear the fatigue, which is harsh: you will be rewarded with a spectacular view of Kotor and the bay!

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Out of the crowd in Mykonos for beautiful landscape photos

If you’d like to escape from the glamour and the crowd of Mykonos town and the most famous beaches, head to the northern point of the island, to Armenisti lighthouse.

It’s a 6 km walk from Mykonos town. If you rented a car or a scooter you can also drive, the road is paved until about 300 meters from the lighthouse. The last part is unpaved but still easily passable.

The lighthouse is located high on the cliffs on the northwestern tip of Mykonos; It’s a very windy place: when Meltemi blows it will be difficult even to stand, let’s not say setting a stable tripod on the ground.
The location is spectacular, surrounded by rocks and low vegetation, on the top of a small hill. On the other side of the marine channel, you can see the profile of Tinos island.
The lighthouse looks towards North-West, a spectacular location for sunset images. At the right time, you can get the lighthouse’s silhouette and beautiful blue hour landscapes with Tinos island as background.

Also the area that surrounds the building offers many attractive photo spots. Just walk around and you’ll easily discover them.
If you’re keen on early wake-up, a visit to the lighthouse before dawn can reserve pleasant surprises. The soft light will pour directly on the lighthouse with the background still relatively dark, for very scenic images.

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Following the pace of Nature in Jambiani

Jambiani: huts built with wood and fossil coral, nested in a corner of the southeastern tip of Zanzibar.
From here on, there are only sand tracks; mass tourism has not arrived yet.
The rhythms of life of this village are set by Nature and tides.

People of Jambiani live by the sea. Men fish aboard their ngalawas, narrow pirogues with balances made of very hard mango trunks dug with fire, and sails made of sackcloth. Women and children deal with algae cultivation.
Algae are grown in small underwater plots delimited by wooden sticks and wires. They look like domestic gardens.

It takes three months for these brown and reddish algae to ripen. Then they are ready to be harvested and brought away from the tide line, to dry.
They are not used for food. People of Jambiani have daily fish catch as main course. Besides, they breed animals (goats, chickens, cows) and have coconuts and vegetables to supply calories and vitamins.

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The dry algae are sent to a nearby plant, which will pack and export them.
They deal with Japan and Korea – where the algae are a gastronomic delicacy. Other stocks get the cosmetic laboratories scattered around the world.
This way a natural product that for the locals has no real value has turned into one of the sources of livelihood of the village economy.

When low tide occurs in daylight, the life of the village is almost completely transferred to this temporary swamp.

Women, children, and few elders hurry to take advantage of the hours granted by the receding water.
They harvest the mature algae. Flush out of the sand soft worms that will serve as bait for fishermen and collect shells that will be eaten later.
When the tide rises again, they go back to their homes to take care of the harvest of the day and to wait for the return of the fishermen who will take advantage of the favorable moment to climb over the reef again and return home with the catch.

When low tide occurs during the night, it’s welcomed only by the still silence of the village’s sleep. Rarely – in the pale light of the full moon – you can see a solitary figure leaning towards the ground; perhaps a latecomer or an insomniac.
But here at the equator the days always last twelve hours. There is always at least one period of low tide illuminated by the sun when the life of the village moves completely a few hundred meters further east on the uncovered bottom of the sea.

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The question is….

The man was crafting and selling copperware in a small shop in one of the overcrowded narrow streets close to the old Bridge of Mostar.

He dressed completely in white. Long white hair and beard and a beautiful cap. His age was indefinable: the beard let me think of an elderly, but his eyes were young. Let me say he was around 50. It means that during the siege of Mostar in 1993 he was maybe around 25 .

He didn’t speak any other language than his own, and we could interact only with gestures.

He behaved in a gentle way, with calm gestures and instilled tranquility. With his big hands he could craft delicate pieces of craftsmanship. But what about holding a rifle?

Yes, of course, I bought something.

But all the questions remained buried inside me.

What atrocities has he seen? What did he survive? Did he kill somebody?
No one living there at the end of the XXth century is immune, I am sure.

Where it all began (or went to an end)

There is a crossroad of Sarajevo, the capital city of Bosnia and Herzegovina, that was the pivotal point of the history of the modern world as we know it.

From this place on 28 June 1914 Gavrilo Princip assassinated the heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sofia

You can read this sentence on a memorial slab placed in the exact point from where, with some gunshots, Gavrilo Princip did his job.

The assassination of Franz Ferdinand was the spark that ignited the First World War with all its consequences: the collapse od the empires, the treaty of Versailles, the economical crisis in Germany, the surge of Nazism and the Second World War to put it short.

The place of the assassination as it was at the times.
Credits:
https://www.ilcaffegeopolitico.org/13622/dove-inizia-la-guerra-sarajevo-dal-1914-ad-oggi

So if you happen to visit this beautiful and tormented city, don’t miss to take a look at this crossroad: it’s very close to the old town and the market, and if we live today in this world, we owe it also to the gunshots of Gavrilo Princip.

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The Magic Of Ohrid: 7 Outstanding Photo Opportunities

If the name Ohrid sounds new to you, then you are probably missing one of the many hidden gems of Europe!

Ohrid is the name of a beautiful lake, one of the oldest and deepest lakes in Europe. And Ohrid is the name of the city that lies on the shore of this lake.

We are in the Former Yugoslavian Republic Of Macedonia (FYROM).

The debate over the official name of the country is harsh and still unsolved. But it’s not matter of this post.

Ohrid is a very old city. Today it is a town of about 40.000. In the middle age it was the middlepoint of great cultural transformations.

The Ohrid Literary School was established here in 886 by Clement of Ohrid. It became one of the two major cultural centers of the First Bulgarian Empire. Here was forged the Cyrillic alphabet that’s still today predominant in the countries speaking Slavic languages.

Clement of Ohrid was a monk, and he settled there to find peace and calm for his meditations and studies. Soon he realized that the town, placed on a steep hill just above the lake, was perfect for his purposes. Many scholars followed him. They settled in Ohrid and began to meditate, pray and building churches.

At one point there were in Ohrid 365 churches, one for every day of the year and the town was the seat of the Bulgarian Patriarchate. When the Byzantines conquered it, downgraded it to an Archbishopric. It was only a nominal downgrade. At its peak it subordinated the Sofia, Vidin, Vlach and Moldavian eparchies, part of the former medieval Serbian Patriarchate of Peć, (including Patriarchal Monastery of Peć itself), and even the Orthodox districts of Italy (Apulia, Calabria and Sicily), Venice and Dalmatia.

Many other have ruled over Ohrid in the years: Normans, Serbians, Albanians, Ottomans; it became Yugoslavian at the end of WWII. All these dominations created a beautiful melting pot of population and culture and a peaceful way of living together for different religions.

Today in Ohrid you can find catholic and orthodox churches and mosques; all of them blend gorgeously in the urban tissue and mix graciously with the hundreds of byzantine churches.

Ohrid today is a pleasant town with a beautiful atmosphere. You can spend some days between urban explorations, beach relaxing and water sports. The new town has a beautiful lake quay, from the center to the outskirts, where the biggest hotels are. There are bars, benches, small harbors, birds and peace.

Don’t forget that the city and the lake are both listed in the World Heritage Sites List by UNESCO. Ohrid is one of only 28 sites that are part of UNESCO Cultural as well as Natural sites.

If you like photography as I do, these are the seven unmissable hotpoints of the town.

But even if you don’t like photography, don’t miss these beautiful places if you are in Ohrid!

1) The old town

Ohrid is a scenic city and the old town is the gem on the crown. It has been built on a hill directly on the lake. From the slopes of the hill, among forests and cliffs, where all the byzantine churches are, you can get magnificent views of the lake.

You can visit traditional mansions, covered streets (for defensive purposes) and narrow cobbled streets leaning inward with a canal in the middle to convey the rain. These are the oldest ones in town.

If you follow these old streets from the lake shore, you’ll get to the peak of the hill. Here there is an old and partially destroyed fortress. During the walk you’ll see byzantine churches, old buildings, an Hellenistic theatre built in 200 BC and bright sketches of daily life all around.

2) The fortress

Tsar Samuel’s fortress is one of the largest medieval fortification in Macedonia. With its ramparts and fortified towers, the fortress occupies the entire top of Ohrid hill which rises to 100 meters above the level of the lake. Throughout history the fortress has been destroyed many times, rebuilt and upgraded. It bears marks from almost all the historical eras when Ohrid was ruled by the Romans, Byzantines, Slavs and Ottomans.

From the ramparts you get fantastic views over the old town, the modern town and the lake.

3) Saint Sophia Church

One of the most beautiful byzantine churches of the area, located in the lower part of the old town, not far from the lake shore. Built upon the foundations of an old Christian construction at the times of Tsar Samuel (976-1014), it was the seat of the Patriarchate of Ohrid that ruled on a huge territory, from the Danube to the North to the shores of Albania to the West and the Thermaic Gulf to the East.

During the Ottoman rule it was converted into a mosque and the frescoes covered with lime. During the Balkan Wars (1912) was used as a storehouse for weapons. Only after WWII the lime was removed and the frescoes cleaned and refurbished.

Saint Sophia is still an active church and, due to its magnificent acoustic, is a key location for cultural events.

Visit it in the evening to appreciate the light vanishing out behind its silhouette.

4) Kaneo

Kaneo was a fishermen village built in the tiny space between the hill and the lake. Today it hosts some nice beach bars, a couple of piers and a small church exactly at the edge of the lake.

To get there from the town center you walk along a footbridge over the lake.

Visit it in the evening if you fancy a bit of lounge atmosphere with bar terraces directly on the lake, nice light and good music.

Visit it in in the morning to get the real atmosphere of the old fishermen village and to visit the byzantine churches.

You’ll get for sure also the chance of having a boat ride. That’s plenty of boatmen ready to hire their services at very reasonable prices.

5) Church of St. John the Theologian at Kaneo

Just over the village, the Church of St. John the Theologian at Kaneo is built on a cliff directly on the lake in a beautiful blend of Byzantine and Armenian architectural styles.

The atmosphere is sublime here, and you can understand why this was a mystical place for spiritual contemplation.

You can walk a bit further and get a great view of the church with the lake and the mountains in background. Breathtaking sunsets here.

6) Plaoshnik

Just below Samuel fortress, you’ll find an archaeological site called Plaoshnik. The biggest building here is the church, built in 893 AD by St. Clement of Ohrid and dedicated to St.Panteleimon.

This is the heart of the ancient and powerful Ohrid, the gateway of trades and cultures that dominated the area in the Middle Age, the headquarters of the Ohrid Literary School. Here Clement started to work on the new Cyrillic alphabet. Here thousands of scholars were taught, becoming later ambassadors of the Slavonic culture.

St. Clement is buried in this monastery, in a tomb which he built by his own hands.

There are other buildings in the area and excavations still go on. You can visit are some columns and mosaics. Not far from the church (that served as mosque under the Ottoman rule) you can also find a beautiful Turkish shrine, Sinan Celebi Turbesi. It was part of Sultan Mehmed II’s complex, made in 1491. It included a mosque, madrasa, kitchen, Islamic school, caravanserai, hamam and hospital.

Being on the side of the hill, from Plaoshnik you also get a great view over the old town and good part of the lake. There is also a small and sweet coffee bar. You can sit under the sun and look at the landscape while sipping a soft drink,

7) The old bazaar and minarets

The charshiya is the old bazaar area, a remnant of the Ottoman domination, but still a very lively and busy area.

Goce Delcev street, the main pedestrian street of the bazaar is basically a long street at the base of the old town hill. It starts at the farmers market, in a square closed by a mosque and goes straight to the lake, flanked by shops of every kind: from tourist souvenirs sellers to butchers, Balkan sweets and the famous Ohrid pearls, fine silver filigree, painted icons, and roasted chickpeas.

Some of the buildings along the street are original ottoman buildings, and there is also a beautiful mosque. A bit fa away, uphill, you can also spot a catholic church.

Another attraction is the Ohrid Chinar, probably the oldest tree in Macedonia. You find it in the middle of Krushevska Republika Square. This sycamore is said to be 900 years old, even if more realistic estimations set its age in 600 years: a nice age anyway! Being so old, the tree isn’t in its best shape even because restricted in a small area, surrounded by concrete. But the trunk’s diameter is impressive and people say that it hosted in the past a barber’s shop and also a very small cafe!

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5 of the most beautiful wooden churches of Maramures, Romania

Lot of green around, many hills and a church made completely of wood. You could think you’re in Norway, but no! You’re much more south: Maramures is a poor, agricultural region of Northern Romania, stretched between the mountains and the Ukrainian border.

Among the most interesting features of  Maramures are the wooden churches. They were built centuries ago, when the ruling catholic Autro-Hungarian empire had forbidden the locals to build orthodox churches with more durable materials. Anyway, the use of wood proved to be successful in building long lasting and beautiful churches. And, more, churches are built on a hill in the centre of the village, so their size appears greater and impresses more the faithful and the tourist.

 Almost 100 churches have survived in the entire region, and eight of them are listed in the Wooden Churches of Maramureș UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here is a list of the 5 wI liked the best during my visit.

1. Barsana

The wooden church of Barsana was built in 1720 but was moved to its current location, on a nearby hill, almost one century later. The move was made because the villagers believed that the plague victims buried without a funeral on the new location of the church would only find their rest if the church was moved there.

In Barsana there is also a more recent, bigger and more touristic monastery. It was built in the last decade of 20th  century. It’s also worth a visit but don’t mix up the two things!

2. Botiza

The wooden monastery of Botiza isn’t old as the UNESCO listed wooden churches but is beautiful and stands in a spectacular location. It was built in 1991 and made of fir wood; the porch is decorated with the typical Maramures arches. It stands on a green hill, completely surrounded by a beautiful rural landscape.

3. Ieud

Ieud is a village of 4.000, yet it hosts three wooden churches! The Upper Church of Ieud is the oldest one, and is listed in the Wooden Churches of Maramureș UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Made of fir tree wood, historians don’t agree on the date of its construction. The most cautious suggest the 17th century, others date it as far back as 1364 and deem it to be the oldest in Maramures.

The painting in the pronaos depict the Last Judgement, where the blaze of the inferno is about to engulf the sinners. In the attic of the church, an important discovery was made: the Codex of Ieud, a document dating from 1391, which is generally considered to be the oldest example of written Romanian. 

4. Poienile Izei

The Church of the Holy Paraskeva, built in 1632, was super elevated during the first half of the 18th century. The altar was painted in 1735. It’s one of the most beautiful and well preserved wooden churches of the region, and one of the eight buildings that make up the Wooden Churches of Maramureș UNESCO World Heritage Site. It features a double canopy and a bell tower erected above the narthex, harboring a bell room with open gallery and arcades resting on pillars, all covered by a high-pitched pyramid-shaped roof.

5. Surdesti

Church of the Holy Archangels, one of the eight buildings that make up the Wooden Churches of Maramureș UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Acknowledged as the tallest historical monument wooden church in the country, due to its 54-meter-high bell tower, the church combines all the features of wooden churches from Mararnures at the height of their development especially in terms of style and decorations.

It was built in 1721 after the last massive invasion of Tartars that ravaged the country and  is made entirely of oak wood. No iron nails were used in its construction. 

In 1783, three painters, including Stefan Zugravu from Sisesti (iconostasis and altar), shared the task of decorating the inside of the church. The two-level portico with double, scalloped arches and its tall bell tower date back to the 19th century. The framing “windows” of the door between the narthex and the naos were added in 1932.

The 54 metres high bell tower is recognized as the tallest wooden structure in the country

A beautiful iconostasis inside, organized in a pyramidal structure, its icons featuring golden backgrounds and richly sculpted frames.

 

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5 Beautiful Things To See In Eger, Hungary

Eger is a beautiful historical town in northern Hungary.

It’s relatively less known than other Hungarian touristic attractions.

Less than two hours away (both by car and train) from Budapest, it lies on the edge of the crowded tourist routes . Yet it is a pleasant town, with many things to see: baroque buildings and churches, the amazing old town, the spas, the wine cellars.

Many have ruled over Eger, from Mongols to Turks to Austrians. All have left a legacy, one of the biggest being probably the one left by the Ottoman Empire.

If you’ re in Hungary I definitely recommend a visit to this tiny yet beautiful town.

Here are the 5 most notable things to see in Eger among many others. This is my opinion, of course, and you can comment in the space below.

1. The old town

It is the Baroque pearl of Eger with its cobblestoned alleys flanked by beautiful buildings and arched passages.

It’s easily explored by walking.

You can also sit at one of the many bar and cellars to get a glass of the famous local red wine. On the north-eastern edge, at the foot of the Castle Hill you can also visit the ruins of the Turkish Bath Valide Sultana.

2. Dobó István square

The heart of the old town.

A large, beautiful square with a modern multicolored fountain in its middle and baroque buildings all around:

The Town Hall,

The old Priory building

The beautiful Church of St. Antony of Padua or Minorite Church. Visit its beautiful interior with frescoes and woodworks.

3. The castle

Eger’s castle stands on a hill that overlooks the town and the surrounding area.

It has a long and troubled history.

It was built after an earlier one, located North-East of the town, was destroyed by the Mongols in 1241. Reinforced during the reign of King Matthias (1458–1490).

It was the center point of the Hungarian national drama known as the Siege of Eger. In 1552 the Ottoman army laid siege on the town in an attempt to conquer it and guarantee access to the vast pasturelands and a direct route to Budapest. But the defenders, led by István Dobó, were brave enough to withstand the assaults for more than one month until when the invaders withdrew.

After the battle the castle resulted almost completely destroyed. The reconstruction process took place between 1553 and 1596. In 1596 the Ottomans came back. They launched a new siege that this time proved to be successful. The conquer of the town marked the beginning of the almost one century long Ottoman rule over Eger.

You can visit the castle and some buildings more recent than the sieges, like the Gothic Palace.

You can also walk along the walls and enjoy some breathtaking views of the town and surroundings.

4. The Minaret is a remnant of the Ottoman rule and still stands proud in the middle of the town with its 40 meters height. It was the northernmost Turkish minaret in Europe.

There’s no mosque anymore so that tall and thin structure looks a bit odd, but fascinating.

Climb to the summit to get a great view over the town and its surroundings.

5. Egri Bikaver is the red wine produced from the vineyards around Eger.

It has a good and well-deserved reputation. In recent years the production of the area has been diversified and also white and rosé wines have approached the market.

You can taste a glass or buy some bottles in the wine bars and wine shops of the old town.

Many of the cellars are located in the outskirts of the town in an area that bears the poetic name of Valley of Beautiful Women (Szépasszonyvölgy in Hungarian!).

In autumn you’ll find here the harvested grapes ready to be converted into wine and stored into the cellars cut into the tufa.

There is a park and some restaurants, and you can visit the cellars around.

If you have a car you can also drive through the hills that surround the town, completely covered by vineyards. It’s an interesting detour.

If you are there in autumn, enjoy the beautiful warm colors all around, contrasting with the deep purple hues of the grapes.

The most renowned area is Nagy-Eged Hill (in English Great Eged Hill) that’s Eger’s Grand Cru terroir. It lies North East of the town and you can visit it also by bike, if you’re fit enough.

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Intimate Plitvice

The UNESCO World Heritage listed Plitvice lakes National Park (Croatia) is a system of lakes connected by scenic cascades.

You can walk for hours among flowing water and forests and follow the direction of your thoughts with no distractions.

It’s a place where you can enjoy a silent and deep contact with Nature even in peak season.

In this slideshow, just a bunch of images: feelings and emotions of my last visit.

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